In situ landraces: best practice evidence-based database
A tool for promoting landrace conservation

In recent years, the market of ‘Aglione della Val di Chiana’ has been quickly growing both locally and nationally. The landrace is commercialised as row product (i.e. bulbs and cloves) or also as processed products such as ready-to-use sauces, creams, and jams.

Many local restaurants use ‘Aglione della Val di Chiana’ for the preparation of a typical main course: the so-called ‘Pici all’Aglione’.

The interest on the landrace also caught the attention of the other European and non-European markets. The product has been recently exported in USA and Japan.

This landrace has been recognized as ‘Prodotto Agroalimentare Tipico’ (PAT, litteraly Typical Food Product) by the Italian Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry through the technical support of Regione Toscana. The PAT recognition is based on evidence that demonstrate the use of a landrace (or a processed foodstuff) in a certain area for at least 25 years.

In recent years, ‘Aglione della Val di Chiana’ also caught the interest of the ‘Slow Food’ foundation that included it into a group of products called ‘the Ark of Taste’; this initiative aims at drawing attention on products at risk of extinction by inviting people to take action in order to protect them.

Currently, ‘Regione Toscana’, within the EU’s Rural Development Plan 2014-2020, funded an historical research and morpho-phenological and genetic characterisation of the landrace in order to include it on the ‘Registro regionale delle varietà locali’ (Regional register of landraces) of Toscana Region. This activity is foreseen in the implementation of the Tuscany Region Law (n. 64, 1997) which is aimed at safeguarding and promoting the cultivation of local genetic resources).

Mainly grown as a garden crop by private individuals all over Switzerland, however some farmers of Bosco Gurin still cultivate this variety at small scale for the local market. ‘Bosco Gurin’ is an important ingredient in a traditional vegetable soup made from local vegetables called ‘Måtzufåmm. The soup and the ‘Bosco Gurin’ variety are celebrated at the yearly village festival taking place in September.

The turnip ‘Bosco Gurin’ is said to be only growing well and to its excellent taste in the village of Bosco Gurin. The turnip landrace makes for an important part of the village’s heritage.

‘Broccolo fiolaro di Creazzo’ has a rich local market. However, no official data is available on the market price and the overall turnover.

This landrace has been also recognized as ‘Prodotto Agroalimentare Tipico’ (PAT, literally Typical Food Product) by the Italian Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry through technical support of Region Veneto. The PAT recognition is based on evidences that demonstrate the use of a landrace (or a processed foodstuff) in a certain area for at least 25 years.

In recent years, ‘Broccolo Fiolaro’ also caught the interest of the ‘Slow Food’ foundation that included it into a group of products called ‘the Ark of Taste’; this initiative aims at drawing attention on products at risk of extinction by inviting people to take action in order to protect them.

The cultivation methods and phases, that were part of the local oral tradition, were formalised into written guidelines that farmers need to endorse in order to be part of the agricultural society. The above-mentioned agronomical practices are analogous to the ones used under organic farming systems and thus constitutes an additional value for the final product.

Finally, FIOI Società Agricola Produttori del Broccolo Fiolaro di Creazzo recently implemented a website in which an important section reports useful information on the landrace (http://www.broccolofiolaro-fioi.it/).

From 2011, in Massalombarda a festival dedicated to Buco Incavato is organized annually, during the harvest (from 15^th to 30^th of august). During the festival all farmers can sell their products. Before 2011, farmers used to sell directly on farm or in local and/or niche markets. From 2019 Slow Food organization supported and promoted farmer production.

From 2015, Buco Incavato is included in the Emilia Romagna Region Register of ‘Safeguard of agricultural genetic resources’ and it is included among the list of ‘typical regional product’:

https://agricoltura.regione.emilia-romagna.it/agriturismo-agricultura/temi/agrobiodiversita/repertorio-delle-risorse-genetiche/repertorio-delle-risorse-genetiche

From 2019 Buco Incavato is listed among ‘Slow Food Presidia’.

Traditionally this variety is grown in the region of Geneva. In 2011 only seven farmers cultivated ‘Epineux argenté de Plainpalais’ in this region, harvesting between 100 and 130 tonnes per year. The harvest is mostly sold in the local market. Outside of Geneva this speciality is hardly known.

‘Epineux argenté de Plainpalais’ has been awarded and protected in 2003 with the designation of origin ‘Cardon épineux genevois AOP’ (Appellation d’Origine Protégéé). It is the only vegetable in Switzerland with the AOP label. Since its certification, the popularity of “Epineux argenté de Plainpalais” has increased not only within the Geneva region but throughout Switzerland. This cardoon variety has also been recognised as part of the ‘Culinary heritage of Switzerland’ (https://www.patrimoineculinaire.ch/Produkt/Cardon-de-Geneve-Cardon-epineux-genevois-AOP/110).

The initial promotion of research and of farmer awareness triggered a virtuous process of conservation. The area under cowpea cultivation increased which in turn significantly increased the income of the farmers who cultivated the crop. The market price for the landrace increased (in the main regional province, Perugia) from 6 euro/kg in 1994 to the present 20-22 euro/kg.

The landrace is included into the Regional Register of Landraces, implementing the Umbria Region Law concerning the protection of local genetic resources (n. 25, 2001).

In order to encourage the cultivation of ‘Fagiolina del Lago Trasimeno’, a request for the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) label has been promoted. ‘Fagiolina del Lago Trasimeno’ also caught the interest of the Slow Food movement which included it among its ‘presidia’, and, within a few years, it became a must in many top restaurants, even outside the region Umbria.

From 1978, through the annual event ‘Sagra del Fagiolo’, the association ‘Pro Loco Cave’ increased year by year the local market potential and the general interest on the landrace. In fact, for this event beans are processed according to traditional recipes that valorise the peculiar culinary features of the bean

The landrace is included into the Regional Register of Landraces, implementing the Umbria Region Law concerning the protection of local genetic resources (n. 25, 2001). This landrace has been also recognized as ‘Prodotto Agroalimentare Tipico’ (PAT, literally Typical Food Product) by the Italian Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry through the technical support of Regione Umbria. The PAT recognition is based on evidence that demonstrate the use of a landrace (or a processed foodstuff) in a certain area for at least 25 years. The PAT recognises both ‘Fagiolo verdino di Cave’ and ‘Fagiolo giallo di Cave’.

‘Pro loco Cave’ (http://prolococave.it/, Perugia, Italy) is a local association of the district of Cave (Foligno, Perugia, Italy) whose main aims are: i) cultural enhancement, ii) valorisation of territory and landscape, iii) heritage preservation and iv) development of good territorial practices. The association has been involved for decades in the valorisation, preservation and promotion ‘Fagiolo di Cave’. Throughout the past 25 years, Pro-Loco Cave favoured the traditional cultivation of the landrace and created an annual event (http://prolococave.it/sagra/) to promote the product. Currently, the association holds the brand ‘Fagiolo di Cave’ and carries out coordination activities favouring the networking among the producers.

In order to favour conservation and to valorise diversity, the collective brand ‘Fagiolo di Cave’ was registered for two types of Cave’s beans: the light green and the yellow one.

The cultivation methods and procedures, that were part of the local oral tradition, were formalised into written guidelines that farmers need to endorse in order to use the brand. The above-mentioned agronomical practices are analogous to the ones used under organic farming systems and thus constitutes an additional value for the final product.

Finally, Pro-Loco Cave recently implemented a website in which an important section reports useful information on the product and the annual event (http://prolococave.it/sagra/).

In order to encourage the cultivation and promote ‘Fava Cottora dell’Amerino’ on the local market, the association named ‘Pro Collicello’ established a gastronomic festival in which the landrace is used to prepare diverse curses, according to local traditional recipies. The event take place every year in the municipality of Collicello (Terni, Italy).

As ‘Fava Cottora dell’Amerino’ is included among the ‘Slow Food presidia’, both local and national markets are growing even if the production is still limited.

The ‘Fava Cottora dell’Amerino’ caught the interest of the Slow Food movement which included it among its ‘presidia’ in 2010.

‘Gniff’ is still very much appreciated on the local market in the Malcantone region. Thanks to the cooperation between Coop and ProSpecieRara, ‘Gniff’ is in discussion for sales in bigger Coop Supermarktes throughout Switzerland. Furthermore, it can be found on farmers’ markets all over Switzerland.

During the European project DIVERSIFOOD, the Gniff carrot and deriving breeding lines were tested for their taste characteristics in collaboration with chefs. A rather rustic taste of low sweetness, with spicy, herbal, earthy flavors was attested to the line of the original Gniff. Due to the genetics from modern varieties, the newly developed breeding lines were rather sweet, but otherwise a bit shallow. Chefs therefore preferred the taste properties of the original Gniff. As such, taste breeding goals of the new lines were defined rather close to the original landrace.

‘Grütt’ is marketed locally in the Seeland region of the Canton Bern mainly by organic farmers which obtained the tubers directly from the ‘Grütt’ farm. Additionally, some farmers even deliver tubers of the landrace to supermarket chains. However, the landrace’s name is probably never communicated with the produce, as the crop in general is not well known to consumers, and therefore the variety’s name is not very important to marketing.

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Local and, possibly, regional. Marketed under the trademark Green heritage®.

Chefs have indicated a pronounced interest in swede ‘Klint karin’ due to its storage and gastronomic qualities.

‘Klint karin’ was registered 28 November 2018 on the Swedish official list of varieties as a conservation variety.

Until the 1980s the ‘Küttiger Rüebli’ was mainly marketed locally in Küttigen and surroundings. With the beginning of commercialisation of seeds by Sativa Rheinau after 1999, the interest has grown at a national level, nowadays it can even be found in bigger Supermarkets throughout Switzerland. The landrace is primarily marketed as a raw product although it can sometimes be found pickled or dried the traditional way on farmers’ markets or in local shops. Local restaurants serve the pickled ‘Küttiger Rüebli’ together with a white sauce, black pudding and liver sausages or with apple slices.

In order to promote and maintain the ‘Küttiger Rüebli’ and other local carrot varieties on the local market and as traditional varieties, a commission established the ‘Aarauer Rüeblimärt’ (Aarauer carrot market) where the ‘Küttiger Rüebli’ still is sold by the Countrywomen’s Association Küttigen (Landfrauenverein Küttigen). The event takes place in Aarau every year on the first Wednesday of November. The ‘Küttiger Rüebli’ has been recognised as part of the ‘Culinary heritage of Switzerland’.

Local and, possibly, regional. Marketed under the trademark Green heritage®.

Chefs have indicated a pronounced interest in potato onion ‘Leksand’ due to its storage and gastronomic qualities.

‘Leksand’ was registered on December 2017 on the Swedish official list of varieties as an amateur variety. Registration is effective until December the 31^st 2027.

Grey peas have been out of fashion for a long time. The new Nordic food movement has called for renewed interest in this species. Grey peas have been involved in research projects and trials to regain lost and develop new knowledge on the crop.

Legumes are becoming more used for home cooking, as vegetarian protein source, and some high-end restaurants use them as a speciality. ‘Lollandske rosiner’ has this characteristic slight bitter taste, which to some people are more attractive compared to the commercial very sweet pea.

This landrace has potential for new uses.

‘The bread–Broa dos Arcos–is included in the Slow Food Catalogue; the local and dynamic tourism activities, a fast-growing segment, allows a sustainable market.

Although Parli is considered and appreciated as a delicacy due to its chestnut-like flavour, the market is small as prices are high. Due to its rather low yields, small tuber size and difficulty in obtaining potato seeds only few farmers in Switzerland cultivate ‘Parli’ thus creating a limited supply to the market.

Efforts initiated by ProSpecieRara are underway to promote Parli among other potatoes as a speciality for marketing through selected grocery stores and in the top gastronomy. Due to its very rich flavour profile, these potatoes are used as an exclusivity and not only as a staple food.

Marketed under the trademark Green heritage®. Grey pea ‘Rättvik’ is being sold to consumers through the company Nordisk råvara nationally.

Chefs have indicated a pronounced interest in grey pea ‘Rättvik’ due to its historical and gastronomic qualities. Rättvik’ was registered 20 April 2010 on the Swedish official list of varieties as conservation variety. Registration is effective until 31 December 2020. It is marketed under the under the trademark Green heritage®.

Seeds of ‘Rotes Herz’ are available in some supermarkets and in the ARCHE NOAH shops. From 2016 to 2018, approximately 1.800 seed packages were sold. Apart from that, seedlings and fruits can be purchased on farmer’s markets and directly on multiplying farm.

Seed are commercialised by Arche Noah.

The landrace is very appreciated on the local market (Umbria Region), also due to the several initiatives carried out by local authorities to save the landrace by promoting its cultivation and market (see below ‘Added value’ and ‘External support’).

In order to encourage the cultivation and promote ‘Sedano Nero di Trevi’ on the local market, the association named ‘Pro Trevi’ established a festival during which the product is directly sold by the farmers and a prize is assigned to the best farmer. The event takes place in Trevi (Perugia) every year, in October.

‘Sedano Nero di Trevi’ also caught the interest of the Slow Food movement which included it among its ‘presidia’ in 2008, and, within a few years, it became a must in many top restaurants, even outside the Umbria Region.

This landrace has been also recognized as ‘Prodotto Agroalimentare Tipico’ (PAT, litteraly Typical Food Product) by the Italian Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry through technical support of Region Umbria. The PAT recognition is based on evidences that demonstrate the use of a landrace (or a processed foodstuff) in a certain area for at least 25 years.

In 2014 ‘Sedano Nero di Trevi’ was included into the ‘Registro Regionale delle Varietà Locali’ (‘Regional Register of Landraces’) of Umbria Region, in the implementation of the Umbria Region Law (n. 25, 2001) on genetic resources.

Many maintainers of this landrace on Shetland and Orkney do not market their potato crops. They are often for personal consumption or to be shared with friends and family but are occasionally sold at local markets or informally to acquaintances.

This is not to say that there is no wider market for the Shetland Black potato. They are available to buy online where their status as a registered ‘Slow Food’ is a selling point (Heritage-potatoes.co.uk, 2019).

Shetland black potatoes have caught the attention of the ‘Slow Food’ movement in the UK and are therefore now a registered Slow food (Slow Food in the UK, 2019). Potato landraces fall under SASA’s Scottish Landrace Protection Scheme (Sasa.gov.uk, 2019).

Shetland kale is mostly grown for on-farm consumption, or for over wintering feed for cattle or other livestock. It has gained some interest as an interesting and traditional crop sue to the Slow Food movement, so there is some suggestion of a market for Shetland kale for general consumption.

Shetland kale has caught the attention of the ‘Slow Food’ movement in the UK (Slow Food in the UK, 2019). Kale is commonly viewed as a ‘superfood’ (Šamec, Urlić and Salopek-Sondi, 2018).

Regional and, possibly, national. Marketed under the trademark Green heritage®. In 2013, 600 kg of the bean was delivered to one retailer in Sweden with the understanding that it should be sold to consumers. Still, in 2019, the bean has regrettably not reached the market.

Chefs have indicated a pronounced interest in French or Kidney bean Signe due to its cooking and gastronomic qualities which have been demonstrated in comparative tests.

Signe was registered March the 4^th 2011 on the Swedish official list of varieties as a conservation variety. Registration is effective until 31 December 2021.

‘Solina’ soft wheat has a limited niche market. Thanks to the Slow Food initiative, it is common to find products also outside the Region Abruzzo. Flour of organic ‘Solina’ is currently sold for about 3.5 €/kg.

‘Solina’ has been recognized as ‘Prodotto Agroalimentare Tipico’ (PAT, litteraly Typical Food Product) by the Italian Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry through the technical support of Regione Abruzzo. The PAT recognition is based on evidences that demonstrate the use of a landrace (or a processed foodstuff) in a certain area for at least 25 years.

‘Solina’ also caught the interest of the Slow Food movement which included it among its ‘presidia’, and, within a few years, the derived products became a must in many top restaurants, even outside the Abruzzo Region.

This landrace is registered in the Ark of Taste of the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity. Nowadays, the landrace ‘Tarreste’, besides being used in the traditional way, it is also used in a regional sweet, in a concept of innovation, giving new uses to traditional landraces.

In addition, young students and young chefs are currently using this landrace to develop new dishes in international competitions.

This regional variety is registered in the Ark of Taste of the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity.

Local and, possibly, regional. Marketed under the trademark Green heritage®.

Chefs have indicated a pronounced interest in swede ‘Vintjärn’ due to its storage and gastronomic qualities.

‘Frieda Welten’ is primarily grown in private gardens and only few farmers cultivate and market this variety locally. Although this variety can be harvested earlier than standard early varieties it is and probably will remain a variety for small niche markets.

‘Frieda Welten’ is one of only few remaining ‘winter crops’ of vegetables. Such crops are very precious in order to promote an all year use of gardens, and as such to provide to sustainability goals.

As ‘Roveja di Civita di Cascia’ is included among the so-called ‘Slow Food presidia’, both local and national markets are growing even if the production is still limited.

In 2015 ‘Roveja di Civita di Cascia’ was included into the Regional Register of Landraces (Umbria Region, Italy), implementing the Umbria Region Law concerning the protection of local genetic resources (n. 25, 2001). 

The landrace also caught the interest of the Slow Food movement which included it among its ‘presidia’.